Bodmin Moor is one of those places that takes your breath away before you’ve even thought about your first pint. The wide skies, granite tors and rolling mist make it feel wild and untamed. But tucked away across this rugged landscape are pubs and breweries that have been keeping walkers, travellers, and the occasional smuggler refreshed for centuries. On my latest wander across the moor, I ducked into a few of them – and what I found was a mix of history, hearty hospitality, and some brilliant Cornish ales.
Jamaica Inn – Smugglers and Stories
No trip to Bodmin Moor feels complete without a stop at Jamaica Inn, the coaching house turned world-famous pub that’s as famous for its ghosts as its pints. Stepping inside feels like stepping into a novel – low ceilings, creaking floors, roaring fire. I ordered a pint of Jamaica Inn Ale, brewed by St Austell Brewery just for this pub. It’s a copper-amber bitter with a malty backbone and a crisp, dry finish. Not a showy beer, but when you drink it in a place steeped in 18th-century smuggling tales, it tastes like part of the history.
One regular told me with a grin, “The ghosts only show up after your third pint.” I didn’t stick around long enough to test the theory – but I can see why the pub has become such a magnet for visitors.
The Old Inn, St Breward – Cornwall’s Highest Pub
From there I pushed up to The Old Inn in St Breward, Cornwall’s highest inn. It’s the kind of pub that feels like a reward at the end of a long muddy walk: dog-friendly, fires roaring, and hearty plates steaming out of the kitchen. I had a pint of Sharp’s Doom Bar, kept perfectly, before tackling their famous mixed grill. A couple at the next table told me they’ve been coming back every Sunday for years just for the carvery – and I could see exactly why.
Penpont Brewery – Brewing with the Moor’s Spirit
On the edge of the moor sits Penpont Brewery, set up in converted farm buildings and fed by fresh Cornish spring water. Their beers taste like they’ve been shaped by the land itself. I tried Beast of Bodmin Moor, a ruby-red ale with a rich malt character and fruity finish that lived up to its name. Their Shipwreck Coast golden ale was another standout – bright, crisp, and packed with hoppy notes. It’s modern craft brewing rooted in the moor’s traditions.
Blisland Inn – Ale Heaven
Further along, I came to the Blisland Inn, a place legendary among ale drinkers. Over the years, they’ve pulled thousands of different guest beers through the pumps – it’s like a permanent beer festival. I went for a pint of Cornish Knocker, light, floral, and refreshingly drinkable after a long trek. One chap at the bar leaned over and said, “You’ll never drink the same pint twice here,” and I had no reason to doubt him.
St Tudy Inn – A Gastropub Surprise
Not all moorland pubs are about muddy boots and log fires. The St Tudy Inn has built a reputation as a gastropub, offering refined plates alongside its cask ales. I sat down to a dish of local monkfish with saffron, washed down with their seasonal ale on tap. It felt polished, almost indulgent, but still rooted in that rustic Cornish charm.
Firebrand & Harbour – The Modern Edge
It’s not just the traditional pubs that keep Bodmin Moor alive with ale. Breweries like Firebrand Brewing Co., which began life in a converted milking parlour on the moor, are shaking things up with bold, hop-forward beers inspired by American styles but brewed with Cornish water and spirit. Meanwhile, Harbour Brewing in Bodmin has become one of the region’s fastest-growing names, producing everything from crisp pale ales to adventurous IPAs.
A Landscape of Pints and Stories
What struck me as I made my way across Bodmin Moor is how each pint tells a different story. From the smuggler’s lore of Jamaica Inn, the cosy welcome of St Breward, the ale paradise at Blisland, and the modern craft of Penpont and Firebrand – it’s a landscape best explored with a glass in your hand.
Closing Thought:
Bodmin Moor may be wild and windswept, but it’s also a place where pubs and breweries offer warmth, character, and a taste of Cornwall in every sip. Walk the tors, sure – but don’t forget to walk into the pubs. That’s where the real stories are poured.
