Step off the A30 and onto the windswept Bodmin Moor, and you’ll find yourself at one of Britain’s most legendary pubs – the Jamaica Inn. This place isn’t just a pub; it’s part of Cornish folklore, literary history, and a must-visit for anyone chasing a pint with a side of ghosts.
A Smuggler’s Haven Since 1750
The inn was built in 1750 as a coaching stop, offering shelter and fresh horses for travellers braving the long, bleak stretch between Bodmin and Launceston. But the remote setting quickly made it the perfect hiding place for smugglers. Rum, brandy, tea, and tobacco would arrive on Cornwall’s rugged coast and find their way across the moor to be hidden within these granite walls.
The name comes from the Trelawney family, who once owned the land and served as governors of Jamaica. The rum connection certainly wasn’t lost on the smugglers who made the inn infamous.
Du Maurier and Literary Fame
While smugglers gave the Jamaica Inn its early notoriety, it was Daphne du Maurier who cemented its legend. After getting lost in the fog and taking shelter here in 1930, she was so captivated by the atmosphere that she wrote Jamaica Inn (1936), a gothic tale of wreckers, smugglers, and mystery. The book went on to inspire an Alfred Hitchcock film in 1939 and a BBC drama in 2014, ensuring the inn’s spooky reputation lives on.
First Impressions – Atmosphere & Setting
Arriving today, you’re greeted by a sprawling granite building set against the dramatic backdrop of Bodmin Moor. Mist often hangs low, giving the whole place a brooding, cinematic quality. Inside, the inn is everything you want from a historic pub – thick stone walls, heavy beams, crackling fires, and nooks and crannies that whisper with stories of the past.
It’s part pub, part museum, part hotel – and all atmosphere. You can pop in for a pint, stay overnight in one of the 36 rooms, or wander through the Smuggling Museum which houses one of the UK’s largest collections of smuggling artefacts.
The Drinks – Local Ales, Cider & Rum
The bar is a proper showcase of Cornwall and the Westcountry. On our visit, the highlights included:
- Jamaica Inn Ale – the house brew, smooth and malty, best enjoyed by the fire.
- Beast of Bodmin Ale – a bold pint with a name as legendary as the moor itself.
- Tribute and Proper Job from St Austell Brewery – Cornish staples.
- Jail Ale from Dartmoor Brewery – a well-balanced bitter with plenty of character.
- Rattler Cider – strong, fruity, and a Cornish icon in its own right.
And for spirit lovers, the shelves are stacked with Cornish gins, single malts, and a solid selection of rums, including their own-label Jamaica Inn Rum and bottles of Dead Man’s Fingers. It’s the kind of bar you could lose an afternoon to, especially if the moor fog rolls in.
The Food – Hearty and Proper Cornish
The menu leans into hearty pub classics. Think homemade steak pies, Cornish pasties, beer-battered fish and chips, and Sunday roasts that would satisfy even the hungriest walker. Puddings are unapologetically indulgent – sticky toffee, jam sponge, and Cornish ice creams. Portion sizes are generous, and the food feels like it’s designed to refuel you after a bracing walk across the moor.
Service & Vibe
Despite the inn’s fame, the service feels relaxed and friendly. Staff are used to curious visitors and ghost-hunters, and they’re more than happy to share a spooky story or two if you ask. The vibe balances tourist attraction with working pub – yes, it’s busy, but it still manages to feel authentic.
The Ghost Factor
Of course, no review of Jamaica Inn is complete without mentioning the ghosts. Over the years, guests have reported phantom footsteps in empty rooms, shadowy figures in the corridors, and whispers when no one’s around. Whether you believe in it or not, the atmosphere of the inn – especially at night – makes it easy to see why these tales endure.
Final Thoughts
The Jamaica Inn is more than just a pub – it’s a slice of Cornish history, a living legend, and a cracking place for a pint. Come for the ale, stay for the food, wander the museum, and maybe – just maybe – keep an ear out for those ghostly whispers on the moor.
Would you dare to spend the night in Cornwall’s most haunted pub, or are you just here for the Tribute and Rattler?
